My cousin, Carrie Molz, passed away Christmas Eve morning, at the age of 53. I find myself unusually affected by her passing, in part because her death was so unexpected and she was so young, but also: 

… the sheer number of people whose lives she touched. The crowds at her visitation and funeral were unlike any I’ve ever seen (and I’ve been to a lot of funerals). We barely found a place to park at the visitation. And after standing in a very long line for at least 30 minutes, the funeral director nicely asked everyone to move more quickly as there were so many people who wanted to offer condolences to the family. 

… and the beautiful eulogies from family and friends who spoke so eloquently of her life’s work caring for others through her volunteering. She’s inspiring me to step it up! 

… and the grace and compassion Todd, Tyler, and Trevor had for us mourners; even in their grief, they cared for the comfort and concern of those who came to show their respects.

… and being reunited with my far-flung brothers and sister as well as all the Hogans, Kortes, and Fladungs. We shared so many family stories and got caught up with our current lives. While talking with Ed Hogan about all the fun we had visiting them on the farm when we were young, he told a new-to-me story about my dad. He said every time our family got in the car to go back to Ottawa, Dad would roll down his window and yell, “Ed!” When he looked up, Dad would make the sign of the cross. This went on for years and Ed thought it was just a thing he and Uncle Al did. But about 10 years ago, his family finally explained it to him. One summer when he was young, he stayed for a week at Aunt Charlotte and Uncle Bob’s farm. One day Charlotte was driving with Ed on a rural, empty road and ran through a stop sign. Little Ed questioned her about it, and she explained that she could see in all directions and there clearly weren’t any cars, so it was OK. But as she was explaining her poor driving habits, she looked over and saw Ed making the sign of the cross. Ha!  That was sure my dad’s teasing way!

Right after Mom died, I was with my 8-year-old granddaughter. She noticed I was very quiet and asked what was wrong. I told her I was sad because my mom had just died. She said, “Grandpa, many people believe you can carry another person in your heart.” So true, sweet girl. And Carrie that’s where you are too! 

A fantastic video of Hoyochi Nikko, the place we stay on Maui.  If you watch closely you will see me waving to the drone from condo unit @203.

Tuesday—last full day—we took special care on our morning walk to soak in all-the-everything. We also continued to search in vain for the name of the artist who had a palm leaf piece at a local spa. Karen called the spa, the hotel with which the spa is associated (x2), asked at several galleries, but zippo. I’ve made many tries too and I’m still trying. If anyone has a lead, give me a call.

Our last sunset had only little color but was still beautiful and peaceful.

Wednesday we did all the usual morning stuff, packed, and said goodbye to the ocean. We also stopped to say goodbye to Melody. While sitting with her, a guest returned a coffee pot she had loaned them because theirs didn’t work, and I was struck by how many guests they help so graciously every day, all day.

Checkout was 11:00 a.m. and our flight 10:15 p.m., so LOTS of time ahead of us with only a few plans, but we thought we could punt, and we did; in retrospect though, it would have been more fun to have better plans. But we did very much enjoy lunch at Honu (we had our favorite: fish dore-style) and noticed that their paper straws had honus (turtles). If you haven’t read Karen’s blog post on the straw pollution here, take a look at: https://davidjkorte.com/2018/02/24/textures-of-hawaii-no-straws/

After lunch, we headed to Maalaea Harbor to see the Hokule’a; she was back in Hawaii after sailing for three years around the world. We’ve been interested in these voyaging canoes for a long time, ever since Richard, Karen, and I saw the Mo’okiha O Pi’ilani being built inside a hangar at Kamehameha Iki Park and Captain Tim Gilliom gave us a tour. The Hokule’a was in Maui for a couple weeks so the crew could share their sailing and navigating knowledge with the public in general, but with the keiki (kids) in particular. Kala, an apprentice navigator, was on board when we visited and there is a remarkable, short film of her here that is definitely worth checking out: https://www.gohawaii.com/hawaii-rooted/Kala-Tanaka/

Earlier in our trip Karen and I felt privileged and emotional to hear five crewmembers, captains, and navigators, speak of the history of Hokule’a and their experience as part of her 3-year World Tour. As Karen mentioned in her blog it is such a powerful tale from many perspectives, including how it was a catalyst for Hawaiians to come to know and reclaim their culture in the deepest possible ways.  See Karen’s blog for more insight into the Hokule.  https://davidjkorte.com/2018/02/21/textures-of-hawaii-day-8/

By early afternoon, Karen, who hadn’t had much sleep the night before, was really aching to take a nap. And I wanted to explore the beaches around Wailea. So we did both. I found this beautiful place where she could nap in the car and I could enjoy the ocean one last time.

I’d been wanting to go to Monkeypod, and we finally made it for happy hour and pupus. Great (I mean REALLY great) drinks and good food. The interior design was interesting and the bubble bar back caught my eye. We lingered as long as we decently could, and then it was time to bring this Great Hawaiian Adventure to a close.

A hui hou, Maui! We’re booked for 2019! And mahalo to everyone for coming along on this ride; Karen and I have enjoyed all your comments immensely.

First, a postscript to the whale-birthing story. Melody told us today that sharks are known to go after the whale placentas! Our kayak observers, Bob and Cindy thought: yikes!

When rain canceled Thursday’s Pupu Night, I whined to Melody that I didn’t get any of her famous chocolate coconut clusters. She took pity on me and brought me my very own—happy days! (And I am generously sharing them with Karen.)

Property manager Allyn loves to snorkel at our beach and collect beautiful shells—we were stunned when we saw what he had because there are never ANY shells ON the beach. But he has a huge collection, which he washes, scrubs, cleans, and polishes. Now he’s fastening them to picture frames and will be selling them exclusively at Martin and Macarthur’s in Whaler’s Village. Very cool! While admiring his work, Melody asked if she could use one of my turtle pictures to put in the frame when they display them for sale. I said, of course! What an honor.

Our beach walk often has a surprise or two. Yesterday Karen noticed a couple walking towards us with bunches of big, knobby yellow things. She stopped them and asked what they were—wild lemons was the answer! Then today a person had a perfect way to keep a beach umbrella from blowing away—tent clips and stakes.

A couple weeks ago, with Susan and Cal, we met a sculptor who had just finished a piece for the lobby of the Ritz, so today we went to check it out. A staff person saw us looking at it and was curious when we told him we had met the artist. He said staff gets many questions about the meaning of the piece; someone suggested they put M&M’s in its bowl. Karen and I can’t remember if the sculptor told us anything about the meaning of the piece, just that it was difficult moving it from studio to hotel. We have a call into Cal and Susan to see if they remember.

Last night MN Bob and MN David did the sunset ritual blowing of the conch shell.

Tonight Karen contemplated the meaning of life as a rain shower moved through. She says being in Hawaii is like a never-ending mediation on sky and wind and ocean.

What an exciting day! Are you sitting down? A whale gave birth right in front of our condo!

For over an hour I’d been watching a whale just sitting off shore, not moving, which never happens. MN guests here, Cindy and Bob, had also seen the same thing. They had rented a two-person kayak for the week, so they went to check to make sure the whale wasn’t caught up in fishing lines and needed help. So they were out there, observing, when suddenly a baby whale just popped up. And then breached! Quickly a few escorts whales arrived from Molokai’i and off they all swam. Afterwards Cindy and Bob noticed the placenta floating on the surface.

In other animal news, three green sea turtles beached themselves, which apparently they only do in a few locations around the world, Hawaii being one. When I was taking photos of the turtle on the property next to us, I noticed all their beautiful flowers and couldn’t resist taking some photos.

For lunch we went to Pacific’O, a farm-to-table restaurant (they have their own farm, O’o), which we’ve wanted to try for some time. Our MN condo neighbors, sisters Mary Ann and Mary Therese, highly recommended it, so we made it happen. The setting was a beautiful and the food delicious. For our viewing pleasure, we got to watch a good-sized group getting their first surfing lesson. At the end of the meal I had some of their own farm-grown coffee and purchased a couple bags of beans for home.

Back home, I took a couple of dips in the ocean while Karen read—she’s on her 5^th or 6^th book. We’ve made two trips to the local Barnes & Noble, but they are moving to the other side of the island next month, so Karen will no longer have easy access and will have to plan ahead.

Before dinner, Karen noticed we needed a few grocery things, so I took a quick trip to the store where I just happened to see two pallets of proof that Hawaiians love their Spam.

No sunset color tonight—very overcast. But I blew the conch at the appointed time and then we ate on the lanai, enjoying the nighttime breeze, tiki torches next door, and the ocean waves. Somehow I missed a sunset picture from last night.  This evening The Star Princess passed by the island.